Foxau2's 77 RA29 Celica 18RG EFI Megasquirt

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Foxau2's 77 RA29 Celica 18RG EFI Megasquirt

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:20 am

This is a few copies from my thread on 1stGenCelica.com

I'm sure most of you know about me and my Celica. I have a 77 Corolla liftback with the original 2TC. I paid $50 for it and spent just about that much painting it a few years ago. After I swapped the 18RG into my Celica this became my daily driver. The side drafts on the RG aren't tuned very well, and it's getting terrible mileage. I drive 70+ miles round trip for work so gas mileage is much more important than power. The Corolla had it's carburetor rebuilt a little over 3 years ago, and it's beginning to degrade again. Same with the ignition. It's terrible in the mornings even on reasonably warm days. Once it's warm it usually runs fairly well. But it's been getting worse and worse, yet it still gets great gas mileage. I had a few problems where my ignition rotor would arc through to the center of the distributor, but it turns out it was a defect in manufacturing and they have all been recalled. But that's a different story.

I've always wanted to convert my cars to EFI, but never even knew where to start. After I read Bollox's thread on his 18RG with ITB's I found out that it was within my reach. I'm studying electrical engineering so Megasquirt is right up my alley. I wanted to do my RG first, but that would require either building an entire intake manifold, or ITB's. Both of which aren't in the budget just yet. So I've decided after reading BillyJarrel's thread how he converted his 18RC to EFI That I could use the TBI from a GM to convert my Corolla. That would make it run incredibly better, and I should be able to tune it to get even better gas mileage than it's getting now. (I'm getting about 32 MPG now, but 40 would be even better!)

I bought an MSII from a guy on Craigslist out of Montana. It came with the relay board, cable, assembled MSII V3 PCB, power supply, stim, and two usb-serial converters. All for $250. Not too bad. Of course it wasn't assembled for the way I wanted it assembled so I had to dig through all the MS manuals and such to figure out what I needed to do for my setup. (Single coil, distributor based, original VR sensor, single injector in a GM TBI) There is lots of info on the web dealing with various modifications for a particular setup, but the biggest problem I've run into is that is all so severely fragmented and all over the place. I've resorted to creating an email to myself, and anytime I find a website with helpful info I paste the address into the email with a short description so I can get back at it later.

After fixing it to work for my setup I had spark going with a Toyota coil triggering off a distributor with electronic pickup. It's one thing to get it going on the stim and see things change on the screen, but when you get an actual spark while turning the distributor with a drill it's quite exciting. :) I got the TBI setup from an '87 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. I now have the TPS working, the injector dry firing, the spark plug firing, and the cold air idle stepper motor stepping. I still need to get an appropriate fuel pump, and the coolant temp sensor. It was raining at the junk yard so I was in a hurry and forgot to grab one. I also need to weld the centrifugal advance in the dist, and make the pickup ring solid.

It's all a complete mess on my desk for now, but it at least works. I still need to make the adapter to fit the TBI on the 2TC manifold. I can get 5 of them cut with a water jet for about $90. That was an online quote. I might be able to find it cheaper somewhere local. Once I get this one running and the main bugs ironed out we will probably do it to my dads 77 RA24 and both my brothers' Corollas.

I'm going to drop the TBI, manifold, and distributor at the machine shop and have them run them all through their parts cleaner. I'm tired of having to clean my hands with fast orange after working at my desk. Anyone know how to pull the center rod from the distributor? Drill the rivet on the gear?

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I'm planning to make an adapter circuit board so that I can use my smaller relays that I use for my flatlight converters. They are less than 1/4 the size of the relays on there now. Once I do that I will be able to put the top half of the relay case on it so that it isn't open under the hood. They say it's supposed to be open, but I think that's just their excuse for not designing it better so it will close. Once I do it on the other cars I probably won't use the relay board so that's not that big a deal right now. I may just build my own relay board that has all the external wires connecting on the end instead of coming out of the side. I think they definitely could have done a better job designing the relay board. It seems it was done almost as an afterthought...

Nate

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Last edited by foxau2 on Thu Jan 03, 2013 4:17 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Fiberglass Celica parts:

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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:22 am

I've been working on it all this week. I was initially having troubles getting to to rev up using the original carburetor and ignitor controlled controlled by the MS. I didn't want to start tearing stuff apart until I got the ignition working but I decided to try using the BIP373 coil driver with a coil and it worked perfectly. So after I straightened that out and used shielded wire for the VR sensor I had it running perfectly so the throttle body was the next thing to do. I welded my adapter with my cheap welder and it didn't out very pretty. My welder wasn't built to weld 1/4" steel. But I was able to hack it together. I also had to drill out the edges of the manifold where the TB bolted. You can see that in the pics.

It's absolutely amazing how much more powerful it is! I sincerely hope the 18RG in my Celica responds this well to converting to EFI! It still has a little trouble starting right up on the few first click, but it fires up after a bit. Probably just need to adjust the noise potentiometer on the MS. Maybe the VR isn't producing enough voltage at lower rpms? I'll figure it out. The Coolant temp sensor doesn't seem to read right. I'm pretty sure I have everything right, but everything were right, it would read right. Right? I'll just go over it all again. I don't yet have it installed. Threads are different so I need to find the right tap.

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Here is a short video of it running. This is running on all the calculated values that came with the MS. Pretty good if you ask me. Still room for improvement though.

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The MS is mounted behind the glovebox. I will run a USB out under the center console. After I find a cable that I can screw into the MS I will put it all back together.

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In other news, DO NOT connect one end of your VR pickup to sensor ground! I tried it and it ran just fine until I revved it up a little. The whole thing shut down and stopped communicating. F1 was getting hot and I researched that that meant there was a short to ground in the 5 volt supply. Turned out to be D19 (I think. It was a 5.1V Zener diode) I replaced it with another Zener and it worked until I revved it up again then I had the same problem. So I figured I'd better not push my luck and try it again. I took the VR sensor off the sensor ground and moved it back to chassis ground and it's worked ever since. As the RPMs increase, so does the voltage coming from the VR sensor. As I revved it up that Zener was no longer able to hold back that much voltage so it failed. When Zeners failed they generally fail as a short to ground so that's where the problem was. I think my replacement D19 might be the root of my rough starting. I put a 5.6V Zener back in instead of a 5.1V. I'll grab the right one when I go back to work and see if that changes the starting.

Still to do:

I am going to hook the smog pump back up. (Even though I don't need it here) I need to get a filter for the crank case vent. While I have the dash out, I'm going to take the stock radio apart and hack the AM amplifier so that I can run my MP3 player through the radio when I press the AM button. :ohyeah: I'll probably permanently install the 110V power inverter somewhere in the car as well.

Nate
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Fiberglass Celica parts:

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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:33 am

Those two posts are really the only two posts with any sort of coherent purpose or importance. I didn't get many people interested on 1GC, but I imagine I should have more comments over here.

I've since installed a WB O2 sensor and I have been using the autotune feature in TunerStudio. It works really well! I'm still running it off the dizzy, but I'm currently working on converting it to use Ford EDIS. That will make the ignition much more accurate and I can eliminate the dizzy when problems arise. It should help stabilize my idle quite a bit as well. I've been working on tuning the warmup positions for the IAC, and now it starts right up first click even when it's 20F outside, which it has been here for the past little while. I'm still having troubles with the cranking advance being a little too advanced and it gives a little started kick back when cold. The starter is going bad so that needs to be replaced. That's easy though.

I had problems for a while where it would drive for a couple hundred miles then the injector would mysteriously break and leave me stranded. Turns out the PWM on the injector output wasn't working properly so the MS was driving it as if it were a high Z injector, and the injector didn't like that much current. I put a 5 ohm resistor in with it and I haven't had a problem with it. Reading all over the internet about low Z injectors with MS, they all say to use resistors, but never say why except that it's there to limit the current. I though the current limiting was to protect the injector driver, but it turns out it's to protect the injector. Go figure!

Before I switched from the carb I was getting around 30 MPG, but after converting to EFI it was down in the 22-24 range. Since I've been using the autotune I'm back up to 27. Still not the same as the carb, but the incredible increase in drivability is the few miles less per gallon. I believe once I get the EDIS set up and properly tune I should be back up into the 30's.

This still has the factory engine and AC. The AC still has it's charge, and no major work has been done to the engine. So the engine is definitely tired.
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:42 am

I'll post up some more pictures of my many Corollas.

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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby Crash1976 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:03 am

sweet! i never did see this on the other site. cool project. I would love EFI on my TE31
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:09 am

I have spare adapter plates that I cut out if you are seriously interested in going this route. I have most of the bugs figured out so it would be a breeze for you! :D

Nate
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby UtahSleeper on Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:51 am

Love the project. I would have went throttle body injection, but power was more important to me. What is your gas mileage like? How is your AFR's? Curious cause I want to try this on a 80 Civic at some point in the future and I had concerns with just cutting the stock intake.
80 Corolla Hatchback - Power (In Progress) http://www.3tcgarage.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3208
88 Alltrac - Snow fun (Waiting) http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=43482
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:00 am

The AFR's are what I tune them to, but right now they are all rather lean because I have an exhaust leak. I need to fix the leak then retune it. Right now I'm at 27 MPG, but once I finish the EDIS I should be able to get back into the 30's where I was with the factory carb. I have the cruise afr's set to around 17.5 or so, so it's tuning to hit that. Because of the exhaust leak though the actual AFR may only be 14 or 15. So I'm going to change it to tune to 18.5 or so and see if that ups the MPGs. Power would be nice, but mileage is better right now, as long as it's still drivable. But it's given it gobs more power over the stock carb. From your username I assume you're in Utah? Where? I'm in Clearfield, but work in SLC.

Nate
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby UtahSleeper on Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:38 am

I live in Magna and work in Sandy. Think there is a couple old import's up in the clearfield area. I would figure the exhaust leak is probobaly going to throw off the the mpg right now. As long as it isn't too lean, all should be good I assume :)

Any plans to route the air intake to the fender?

Also, is the W50 trans a straight swap and no drive shaft modifications needed?
80 Corolla Hatchback - Power (In Progress) http://www.3tcgarage.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3208
88 Alltrac - Snow fun (Waiting) http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=43482
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Re: Foxau2's 77 TE51 Corolla EFI

Postby foxau2 on Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:50 pm

I really don't know if the W50 is a straight swap or not. I've never done it. My 2TC has a hard enough time keeping the T50 spinning. If I were to swap a W50 I probably wouldn't even be able to get to freeway speed. :D But since you're going with a turbo that would of course make up for it. I don't plan to route my intake to the fender. I'm just going to leave it just how it is. It isn't high performance enough to warrant the extra time/money used to route a cold air intake. I doubt it would give me any noticeable increase in anything.

The motor needs a rebuild, but if I'm going to spend the money to rebuild a motor, then I will be putting in a 22RE. But that won't happen until the Celica is mostly finished, and that isn't going to happen until I win the lottery... :roll:

Nate
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