EFI Fuel Tank Options

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Re: EFI Fuel Tank Options

Postby 7t5-27 » Sun Jan 03, 2016 1:20 am

If I had to do it over again or in the future I will use this to put it in tank
Good luck with it
its a TA 27 not a TE 27
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Re: EFI Fuel Tank Options

Postby Sd3tc » Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:42 am

im using my stock tank. California cars have a lift pump in the tank so I used the assembly and attached an efi pump to it. I just modified one of the lines coming off sender unit to a bigger size to compensate for the amount to feed. its all steel so I just welded the bigger line into it after I cut out the old one. im not sure what the other tanks look like compared to the California version but there might be a spot where the sending unit is supposed to sit on the side that goes behind the seat
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Re: EFI Fuel Tank Options - No Fuel Slosh Starve Starving Su

Postby rolla_rage » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:26 pm

I had this very same problem on my car when I went EFI, it would surge below about 1/3rd tank. I came up with a pretty simple solution that works perfectly. Like other solutions above it allows you to use the full extent of the tank too.

Can be done with a few bucks worth of steel, MIG welder, cutoff disc/angle grinder, $4 generic fuel filter, and doesn't require a second fuel pump.

BTW for my high pressure pump I used one from a Ford Econoline van from late 80's, they are super common and about $70 if I remember. My setup makes 300+WHP and this pumps handles it fine.

In short I made a steel canister that hangs from the factory toyota drainplug. Graphic below of a cut-away should help explain.

Some notes: To keep the fuel in the canister from overheating (otherwise on warm days it will cavitate in the pump and make noise, doesn't affect engine though) split the return line between the tank and the canister. Make sure to completely thread the canister/drainplug weldment into the tank before positioning the nipples in the canister (preferably before welding on the bottom disc too, so you can debur the nipple welds.


2016-10-28: UPDATE - I have recently made some upgrades to this setup to make it more reliable. On a very hot days the fuel pump would cavitate/boil the fuel on the inlet size due to the restriction of the cheapo fuel filter. Car still runs, but the pump is very loud. Also, when I removed the tee - to return all the fuel to the tank in order to flow more of the cooler fuel out of the main tank into the canister (to help reduce the cavitation) - you would hear air bubbles escaping from the canister back into the tank after the car was turned off.

Fix: I replaced the fuel pump (same Airtex E2000), swapped the cheapo inlet fuel filter with a large Aeromotive 100 micron (PN 12316), and added an external, low pressure 20GPH 12V pump, to pull from the original in-tank pickup and pump into the side of the canister (returning to the main tank via the drilled out drainplug/canister mount). I haven't had a chance to drive in high temps 95F+, and prob won't until next summer, but seems like a good fix. We'll see.

Ecotec 2.0L LNF powered 82 Corolla Wagon daily driver. 314whp/344TQ
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Re: EFI Fuel Tank Options

Postby Racersk » Sun Nov 27, 2016 8:51 pm

Anyone ever try to install a different models EFI tank into an older TE27?

I am asking because I have a spare 22RE truck tank. it is 17G vs the OEM 10G tank. It has a stock EFI fuel pump in it. Has baffles. Has the wiring and plumbing to mostly make for a stock setup. The only issue I see is the fact that it fits awkwardly without mods, and it looks like I need to fab up some brackets.


I do have the battery back there, though (just mocking now- it IS sitting on the battery now). That is a little concerning. But the OEM tank would still be there too with my battery relocation.

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Re: EFI Fuel Tank Options

Postby chesmari » Thu May 04, 2017 5:53 am

chesmari wrote:
coitre20 wrote:@Chesmari Thanks for the follow up. I never thought of using a small capacity fuel cell as a surge tank. Did you use the factory lines from the top of the tank to run your lines to the lift pump? I just want to know how you ran your lines to and from the tank.

Thanks again

I ended up soldering aluminum tubes replacing the original ones. You don't really need to do it the way I did mine. Since you have the lines up and running already, just use those to connect to the surge tank, what matters is you are able to fill up the surge tank and circulate the excess fuel. You can use Volvo fuel pumps that are readily available in many Pick your Part yards, make sure to use filters on both sides. I hope that makes sense.




A little update on this, the cover on this fuel cell kept leaking on me. I decided to just get a cheapo eBay 2L surgetank. No leaks so far and have yet to experience any mishaps. Will give an update if there are changes.

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