Hi to everyone
Moderators: BOBLOOK, AE25, pufito18
Hi to everyone
I have a 1966 MG Midget that I am swapping in a 3tc and 5 speed out of a 1982 Corolla SR5. The engine is in place. It is a nice fit and a fairly easy swap if any swap can be considered easy. Not looking for lots of horsepower. A midget only weighs 1500 lbs. So it doesn't need much hp to have lively performance. Just want a reliable engine that doesn't leak oil. I am going to use a Weber 32/36 carb on the stock manifold and will have to make a set of headers. Might put in a mild street cam. My guesstimate is that I will have 80 to 90 horsepower when I am done.
Re: Hi to everyone
Welcome Mickri, would be nice to see your MG project progress pictures ? You can use the board picture upload setting.
The day we learn to think
Re: Hi to everyone
I have two threads running on the mgexp forum. https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/ One is a general thread about the resurrection of my midget https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,3483766 The other deals specifically with my 3tc swap. https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,3716265. Lots of pictures there. Once I figure out the picture upload I will post some pictures.
Re: Hi to everyone
Good to see a 3t swap! These are getting old so if oil leaks are an issue definitely put a gasket kit into it if still has original crank seals and sump and rocker cover gaskets.
Re: Hi to everyone
The engine has over 200,000 miles on it. I plan to do a complete rebuild with all new bearings, gaskets, seals and whatever else needs to be fixed. That's when I will have my questions for the forum. I have been reading through the posts on engine and drivetrain.
There is an old adage about British engines that if there is no oil under it there is no oil in it. 3tc's don't have that reputation. In fact I think that the 2tc and 3tc are some of the most reliable engines that toyota ever made. The original 1.1L engine that came in my midget barely made 50 hp on a good day. Performance with the oem engine is underwhelming to say the least. Because I plan to change the cam and with headers I hope to have around 90 hp in my 3tc. Besides the engine the other main problem area in a midget is the rear axle. Due to what I will call a design flaw the rear axle haft shafts tend to break. Especially when you get much over 100 hp. There is a relatively easy fix if you have a lathe which I have. Or you can buy race axle haft shafts. Expensive but still cheaper than swapping in a stronger rear axle.
Midgets do have great handling. If the driver is up to the task not many cars can keep up with a midget on a windy, curvey road. It's like driving a big go kart.
Thanks for welcoming me to the forum.
There is an old adage about British engines that if there is no oil under it there is no oil in it. 3tc's don't have that reputation. In fact I think that the 2tc and 3tc are some of the most reliable engines that toyota ever made. The original 1.1L engine that came in my midget barely made 50 hp on a good day. Performance with the oem engine is underwhelming to say the least. Because I plan to change the cam and with headers I hope to have around 90 hp in my 3tc. Besides the engine the other main problem area in a midget is the rear axle. Due to what I will call a design flaw the rear axle haft shafts tend to break. Especially when you get much over 100 hp. There is a relatively easy fix if you have a lathe which I have. Or you can buy race axle haft shafts. Expensive but still cheaper than swapping in a stronger rear axle.
Midgets do have great handling. If the driver is up to the task not many cars can keep up with a midget on a windy, curvey road. It's like driving a big go kart.
Thanks for welcoming me to the forum.
Re: Hi to everyone
I am finally getting to the engine refresh stage of my swap. I have the engine completely torn down. Did not find anything amiss except the intake valve lifters on the #1&2 cylinders were hitting the bottom of the head and the push rod on the #2 intake valve was off the rocker arm and wedged between the support and the rocker arm.
The motor has .050 mm oversize pistons so it has been rebuilt at some point in the past. Cylinder head and block appear to be flat. I put a straight edge on them and didn't find any gaps. The main and rod journals all mic'd within stock specs and the bearings had very little wear. The cam also checked out within stock specs. I am replacing the main and rod bearings and the valve springs. Engine should be back together by the end of next week.
I made a set of headers. Trying to get the primary tubes all the same length was not going to happen. So I went with the simplest design. One thing that I wanted to be able to do was R&R the starter without having to remove the headers. I know of two other Midgets with this engine swapped in. In both cases they ran two tubes over the steering shaft and two under trying to get equal length tubes. To remove the header they have to take out the steering shaft.
I am going to make some smog plugs. My measurements have the smog plugs at 16.5mm x 1.5mm x 18.5 mm long. Anybody know the dimensions on the smog plugs? Didn't think to keep the smog fittings that I took off the engine. Oh well. That's why I have a lathe and mill in my garage.
Once the engine is back together I will be installing a weber 32/36 carb. It will be a close fit to keep the carb and air cleaner under the stock hood (bonnet as the English call it)
The saga continues
The motor has .050 mm oversize pistons so it has been rebuilt at some point in the past. Cylinder head and block appear to be flat. I put a straight edge on them and didn't find any gaps. The main and rod journals all mic'd within stock specs and the bearings had very little wear. The cam also checked out within stock specs. I am replacing the main and rod bearings and the valve springs. Engine should be back together by the end of next week.
I made a set of headers. Trying to get the primary tubes all the same length was not going to happen. So I went with the simplest design. One thing that I wanted to be able to do was R&R the starter without having to remove the headers. I know of two other Midgets with this engine swapped in. In both cases they ran two tubes over the steering shaft and two under trying to get equal length tubes. To remove the header they have to take out the steering shaft.
I am going to make some smog plugs. My measurements have the smog plugs at 16.5mm x 1.5mm x 18.5 mm long. Anybody know the dimensions on the smog plugs? Didn't think to keep the smog fittings that I took off the engine. Oh well. That's why I have a lathe and mill in my garage.
Once the engine is back together I will be installing a weber 32/36 carb. It will be a close fit to keep the carb and air cleaner under the stock hood (bonnet as the English call it)
The saga continues
Re: Hi to everyone
Hows this going?
Had a skim through the mg thread.
A little cramped between the rails huh. The extractor probably wont scavenge as well as a typical 4-1 merge collector but looks like a good compromise to make it fit.
Toyota fuse boxes generally have alot of other things going on but if only the engine wiring required then theres not a huge amount required for a 3t.
The extra relays and fuses suit the jdm te71 dohc efi setups, which yeah I'd keep all wiring and engine bay fuse box in fitting a 2tgeu.
Had a skim through the mg thread.
A little cramped between the rails huh. The extractor probably wont scavenge as well as a typical 4-1 merge collector but looks like a good compromise to make it fit.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
Toyota fuse boxes generally have alot of other things going on but if only the engine wiring required then theres not a huge amount required for a 3t.
The extra relays and fuses suit the jdm te71 dohc efi setups, which yeah I'd keep all wiring and engine bay fuse box in fitting a 2tgeu.