BOBLOOK wrote:I got the point but i assume most people who have turbo engine who want the most performance out of it will most have fresh build parts so no stretched chain/belt factor
RYSO wrote:
The degrees at the crank is the true engine/piston position.
Remember, distributors and CAS (Nissan) all spin by a cam.
Timing chain stretch/slop, chain tensioners, guides all have an impact on timing accuracy.
Ive seen timing drift as much as 10-12 degrees when giving a bit of throttle, that's why you always need to verify timing at about 2000+rpm's.
I hope this clarifies.
RYSO.
You will be amazed how much slack the timing components have, new or used!
Best way is trigger by crank.
RYSO.
R Y S O - T E C H
Home of the fastest bikes and cars
RYSO-TECH Starlet 9.03sec @ 150mph
Official Haltech dealer, Certified tuner
Dynojet 224 chassis dyno
mallito1.8 wrote:Hey ryso i see that your a haltech and tuner I have a f10x fuel only and I'm having issues starting my car . I was hoping for some tips on what might be wrong or what can I do. I started the car with the wires to my injectors wrong and it started and now I found them wrong and wired them correctly I'm having issues to start. I know there needs to be a radiator on for temp start and I'm having one built but can that cause it to not turn on ? And sorry for jacking the thread but I'm getting desperate and really need help. Thanks
Theres no need for a temp sensor just to fire the motor up for a short period. Unless your tune has ALLOT of % fuel corrections in the coolant map, which I doubt.
I need more info on the setup to be able to guide you in the right direction.
RYSO.
R Y S O - T E C H
Home of the fastest bikes and cars
RYSO-TECH Starlet 9.03sec @ 150mph
Official Haltech dealer, Certified tuner
Dynojet 224 chassis dyno
mallito1.8 wrote:Hey ryso i see that your a haltech and tuner I have a f10x fuel only and I'm having issues starting my car . I was hoping for some tips on what might be wrong or what can I do. I started the car with the wires to my injectors wrong and it started and now I found them wrong and wired them correctly I'm having issues to start. I know there needs to be a radiator on for temp start and I'm having one built but can that cause it to not turn on ? And sorry for jacking the thread but I'm getting desperate and really need help. Thanks
Theres no need for a temp sensor just to fire the motor up for a short period. Unless your tune has ALLOT of % fuel corrections in the coolant map, which I doubt.
I need more info on the setup to be able to guide you in the right direction.
RYSO.
ok lets see 1200cc injectors 75mm throttle body putting in 282 isky turbo cam high comp. piston 11.1 ithink lower like 10.9.1 o ring block copper gasket between head and block balanced everything aluminum rods , rods are pinned also, ross pistons stainless valves stock size valve guides double valve springs , 3 pinded crank over size clutch arp chevy bolts, aluminum damper arp bolts, arp block and head bolts every arp bolt you can think of. aeromotive a1000 fuel pump and regulator 50 blow off tial 44mm wastegate. -10an fuel line and -8an return, w55 tranny if need to know, should be a heavy engine for street but really wanted for track but street looks. im guessing 400hp to 500hp+ but don't want much I want to run smooth and consistent not the fastest I don't care. I just want 10 sec. slips that's all oh and a haltech f10x with msd 6al and coil, welded ignition.
Sorry mike It's almost end of the year and just saw this but yea got my car running but not tuned yet since I got a haltech f10x no one around up here works on haltech.
I have a question for you guys,your help will be greatly appreciated,,On an FI intake mani does it matter where on the runners the injectors are placed? I see some intakes where the injectors are placed very close to the head/ and I also see applications where the injector is placed further back on the runners, Is there any performance gains on any of the two applications??