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Webers have been shipped. Its just a waiting game now but before they go on im buying MSD6al, new plugs and wires, and getting a carter p4070 fuel pump and mallory regulator with inline pressure gauge. Yeah i think i will go double springs. And get the manifold ported.

I have no experience with a 310 cam, just been talk to about it being on a daily driven street car that hauled some serious ass lol. I want aggressive sound, good valve opening length and duration but no overkill.

So iv been hearing a ticking noise recently so i pulled the valve cover off to see what the noise was coming from. Turned out i bent a push rod and in the process lost the screw and not to adjust valve clearance because of the vibrations. I can't find them so im guessing they fell through the holes in the head and hopefully sitting at the bottom of the oil pan. Ordered some hardened pushrods from brdracing. Hes shipping them tomorrow morning so hopefully they will be here soon and most of all i hope the screw and nut are sitting in the bottom of the pan

A 310 cam will took away too much torque at low rpm's that engine would be a pain in the ass for a daily,

On the bent pushrod situation if u order the brd pushrods i hope u went for the ones that are slightly taller than stock so you wont have the sunk valve adjuster nut if not just get some Datsun A12-14-15 ones they are a little longer than the Toyota ones!

So if my pushrods were stock then the brd ones should be same length right?!

osrolla wrote:So if my pushrods were stock then the brd ones should be same length right?!

He got both, stock size and the ones that are a little longer


Hardened Pushrods

$49.99 (Stock Length)

$79.99 (.125" Longer)

$79.99 (.095" shorter)

$79.99 (.125" Longer

$79.99 (.096" Longer)

So yesterday i took the motor apart to try and find the valve adjustment screw that fell into the oil passages that the valves go through. I found them so now waiting on new push rods and lifters from brd as well as my webers and my dads racing head. After the motor is put back together with the new parts i will be looking for a better cam to suit the head specs and a block to get bored out and getting 40over pistons. Sucks i can't post pics cause they are too big :/

Got my racing head from my dad today!

Iv been wanting to bore out the head and get some bigger pistons. So i did a little reading and would like to know if there is a general spec or a rule of thumb as to how high of a compression ratio could be ran before having to use a higher octane rated fuel? I believe i read somewhere 10:1 but not positive?

And one more thing, while looking at prices, i saw that there were 2 different size pistons, one .040 bigger and another one .059 bigger but both had same 11.5:1 CR. What is the exact gain from one to the other?

osrolla wrote:Got my racing head from my dad today!

Iv been wanting to bore out the head and get some bigger pistons. So i did a little reading and would like to know if there is a general spec or a rule of thumb as to how high of a compression ratio could be ran before having to use a higher octane rated fuel? I believe i read somewhere 10:1 but not positive?

And one more thing, while looking at prices, i saw that there were 2 different size pistons, one .040 bigger and another one .059 bigger but both had same 11.5:1 CR. What is the exact gain from one to the other?

Higher octane fuel is required so detonation doesn't kill your engine. As far as compression is concerned 11.5 imo is great for the street as long as the tune is correct. The is rule as far as boring the block, I would get the machine shop to bore the block to ensure the cylinder walls are str8. While you have the motor at the machine shop make sure they pin the flywheel to the crankshaft and use arp bolts. You not need the flywheel to cut your legs off if the bolt snap, which they do! take a look
http://youtu.be/cs3DAsKwh14

How exactly is it tuned? And so when i get the block bored out i bring it to the shop with crankshaft installed? Or separate crankshaft andflywheel? Will "pinning" the crank to the flywheel allow me to change flywheel out if ever needed? And yes if i ever have the option to upgrade to ARP bolts i do. This build im planning to do everything right the first time