3TCGARAGE.COM

I was finally able to have my 3TGTE tuned in December. We were able to do a baseline tuning and was about to move forward with the tune when we lost power around 4500 rpm. Couldn't figure it out so we strapped the car back onto the trailer and went home.

Finally had the time to take the transmission out of the way and this is what I saw:



I guess it has more torque than I anticipated. It's going to be fun taking these out. I guess I should've used ARP, a $35 investment. Idiot!

Ryan

Dude all you have to do is get a new crankshaft! Unless you are going to take them out yourself I think it might be cheaper. What set up did you have to wipe all the bolts at 4500 rpms?

Yup same thing happened to me ruined my crank and flywheel use arp and pinned just my 2cents. That sucks

I have 440cc injectors and a t3/t4 turbo. They were stock 3tc bolts.

I used loctite on them, I was told to heat it up with a torch before I pull the bolts with a left hand bit. I guess I'll have to replace the rear main seal after that. Ugh!!!!!

Ryan

common problem

Yup snapping bolts suck and ruining crank and flywheel

I would advise you to take the crank to a machine shop let them take out ,if you want re-tap em for Chevy bolts (arp) and at least 3 dowel pins,that will make it very strong

locktite makes it a problem otherwise they'd tap out quite easily. You could try a left hand drill (for the easy-outs) as sometimes when they bite it's enough to wind the bolt out since a left hand drill spins the broken bolt anticlockwise.

AE25 wrote:locktite makes it a problem otherwise they'd tap out quite easily. You could try a left hand drill (for the easy-outs) as sometimes when they bite it's enough to wind the bolt out since a left hand drill spins the broken bolt anticlockwise.

I was told to heat it up to take care of the loctite, just need to replace the rear main seal.

Ryan